COLORANT PREP: Disperse 3 teaspoons of turmeric powder into 3 tablespoons of a lightweight liquid oil such as sunflower or sweet almond. Use a mini mixer to get rid of clumps.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

• Slowly and carefully add 7.7 ounces of lye to 16 ounces of distilled water. Gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved. Set it aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 3.5 teaspoons sodium lactate.
• Melt and combine 1.6 ounces of castor oil, 2.2 ounces of cocoa butter, 16.2 ounces of coconut oil, 7 ounces of olive oil, 13.5 ounces of palm oil (remember to fully melt the entire container of palm oil before portioning), 10.8 ounces of sunflower oil, and 2.7 ounces of turmeric shea butter into a large mixing bowl. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend the mixture to a thin trace.
• Split the batch of soap into four equal containers - each will hold about 600 mL. Add the following amounts of dispersed turmeric powder and whisk the colorants in. Adjust with more color if necessary.
  Container A: 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon dispersed turmeric
  Container B: 1.5 teaspoons dispersed turmeric
  Container C: 1/4 teaspoon dispersed turmeric
  Container D: none
• Stick blend the darkest color for a few seconds to thicken to a medium trace. The soap should be the texture of pudding. It needs to be thick enough to support the layers above it. Pour all of this soap into the mold and tap on the counter to get rid of bubbles. Smooth with a spoon if necessary.
• Stick blend container B for a few seconds to thicken to medium trace - it needs to be thick enough to support the layers above it. Pour or spoon all of this soap into the mold. Be careful to not break through the layer below. Smooth with a spoon and tap on the counter to get rid of bubbles. Whisk the other containers of soap to ensure they are not getting too thick.
• If necessary, stick blend container C for a few seconds to thicken to medium trace. Pour or spoon all of this soap into the mold. Be careful to not break through the layer below. Smooth with a spoon and tap on the counter to get rid of bubbles.
• If necessary, stick blend container D for a few seconds to thicken to medium trace. Pour or spoon all of the soap into the mold. Be careful to not break through the layer below. Smooth with a spoon and tap on the counter to get rid of bubbles.
• Use a small spoon to create a side wave texture on the top of the soap. There is no right or wrong way to do this, so have fun with it.
• Once you're happy with the top, sprinkle cornflower petals or safflower petals onto the soap. Or, sprinkle both on either side of the mold. Lightly press the petals into the soap with gloved hands to help them stick once cut.
• This soap benefits from gel phase because it helps natural color of the turmeric powder pop. To increase the temperature of the soap, place the mold on a heating pad set to medium for 1-2 hours.
  NOTE: The amount of time on the heating pad will vary depending on your climate and how hot the lye and oils were when mixed. Keep your eyes on the soap for the first hour to help gauge the temperature. Gel phase will first begin in the center of the soap and spread out to the sides. If gel phase is not occurring in the first 15 minutes or so, increase the temperature of the heating pad and insulate with a blanket. Just be careful that it doesn't get too hot and crack.
• Allow the soap to stay in the mold for 1-3 days (depending if you used sodium lactate or not). Carefully remove from the silicone liner and cut the soap into bars. Cutting these bars from the side can help prevent drag marks from the petals on top. Allow them to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy!

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 1 ounce of ginger essential oil into a small glass container and set aside.

COLORANT PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon of the titanium dioxide into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. In separate containers, mix 2 teaspoons of safflower powder into 1 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Finally, mix 2 teaspoons of yellow Brazilian clay into 2 tablespoons of distilled water. Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. Have poppy seeds and safflower petals nearby. Optional: To ensure the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Use a coffee grinder to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

• Slowly and carefully add 7.4 ounces of lye to 15.2 ounces of water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 3 teaspoons sodium lactate.
• In a large glass bowl, combine and melt the 10.2 ounces of coconut oil, 15.3 ounces of olive oil, 2.6 ounces of shea butter, 12.8 ounces of babassu oil, and 10.2 ounces of sunflower oil.
• Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until a very thin trace.
• Once the soap batter is at a thin trace, split off 600 mL into a separate container. Then, split the remaining soap evenly into two containers. They will hold about 750 mL each.
• To the container with 600 mL of soap, add all of the dispersed yellow Brazilian clay and use a whisk to fully incorporate. Then add about 1/3 of the ginger essential oil (it’s okay to eyeball it). Whisk in.
• If the mixture is still very thin, give it a few short bursts with the stick blender. The texture should be a thin-medium trace.
• The key to creating the diagonal layers is pouring the soap while the mold is slightly tilted. Set one side of the mold on an elevated surface to create an angle. We propped one side of the mold on the lid for the Tall Narrow Wood Loaf Mold. You can set the mold on any tool that gives it a slight angle and keeps it steady – towels work well.
• Pour all of the yellow soap into the mold into the “bottom” corner. Tap the mold on the counter to help settle the soap evenly, and use the back of a spoon to even out any ripples.
• Whisk in all of the dispersed titanium dioxide and 2 teaspoons of poppy seeds to one of the remaining containers of soap. Add all of the dispersed safflower powder to the other container.
• The bottom layer of soap needs to sit and harden for several minutes before pouring the white soap on top. It needs to be firm enough that when the mold is set evenly on the counter, it does not move. This can take several minutes. Once it’s firm enough, whisk in about 1/3 of the ginger essential oil to the white soap (it’s okay to eyeball it).
• Remove the lid and carefully set the mold on the flat work surface. Very carefully, pour the white soap over a spatula and on top of the bottom diagonal layer. Gently tap and wiggle the mold to help the white layer settle and evenly disperse. Slowly pouring the soap over a flat tool like a spatula is referred to as “flooding.” This makes the pour less direct and prevents the soap from disrupting the layer below. We recommend the flooding technique when pouring the layers in this soap.
• Allow the white soap to harden for several minutes. While it hardens, slowly whisk the remaining container of soap to help keep it fluid. Test the white layer by gently wiggling the mold. When the white layer has hardened and jiggles only very slightly, whisk the rest of the ginger essential oil into the last container and slowly pour the remaining soap over a spatula and into the mold. Once all the soap has been poured into the mold, gently tap the mold on the counter to help disperse soap and get rid of bubbles.
• Allow the soap to sit and harden in the mold for several minutes. It needs to be firm enough to create texture on top. Once it’s ready, use a fork to create waves on the very top of the soap, down the length of the mold. There is no right or wrong way to do this, just have fun with it.
• Once you’re happy with the top, place a strip of safflower petals down the length of the mold. We placed the safflower petals on one side to allow the wavy texture to show through. With gloved fingers, gently press the petals into the soap to help them stick.
• Spritz the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. Cover the top of the mold to help promote gel phase. If the soap does not go through gel phase that’s fine, but it helps the safflower powder become more vibrant. Allow the soap to stay in the mold for 1-2 days (soap umolds faster when it goes through gel phase). Unmold the soap and cut into bars. Allow them to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy.