Happy Friday, everybody! This is Lane (aka Mama Bass) from Mama Bass Handmade Soap, and I am going to teach you how to make Amethyst Crystal Soap Points out of clear melt and pour soap. I’m very excited to be given this opportunity to test out Bramble Berry’s new Amethyst Fragrance Oil and even create something cool for you guys to learn!

There are so many beautiful things that you can make with these Amethyst Crystal Soap Points. They are one of my absolute favorite things to make. I’m happy to show you how I make them, as well as another project to use the soap points in!

I filmed the making of these projects, so there are videos along with step-by-step instructions. So without further hesitation, let’s get started!

What You Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
50 oz. Stephenson Ultra Clear Soap Base
30 mL Amethyst Fragrance Oil
Tropical Purple Low pH LabColor
Super Pearly White Mica
Fine Silver Rainbow EcoGlitter
Droppers
99% Isopropyl Alcohol in a Spray Bottle

Tools:
Bramble Berry’s Perfect Scale
Infrared Thermometer
Spatula
.15 CC Scoop
5 Quart Glass Mixing Bowl with Lid
Small Microwave-Safe Measuring Cup
Gloves (to avoid fingerprints)

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

Make the Crystals

ONE: Cut up 50 ounces of Ultra Clear Soap Base and add it to the 5 Quart Mixing Bowl. Melt in the microwave using 30 second to 1 minute bursts as many times as needed until completely melted.

TWO: Once the soap is completely melted, pour 16 ounces of the melted soap into a smaller measuring cup and set the rest of the soap aside.
TIP: Pre-warm the measuring cup in the microwave for about 30 seconds so the soap doesn’t cool drastically when transferred.

THREE: Using a dropper, add 3 drops of Tropical Purple LabColor to the 16 ounces of soap and stir until completely combined.
NOTE: This is undiluted LabColor. We normally recommend diluting it, but Lane tested this recipe and found undiluted LabColors work best. If yours are diluted, you will need to add more to get the same color.

FOUR: Add 12 mL of the Amethyst Fragrance Oil to the purple soap and stir until completely blended.

FIVE: Pour most of the melted purple soap to the mold. Reserve about 4-6 ounces in the container, and add 3 more drops of the Tropical Purple LabColor to the rest of the melted soap for a more vibrant purple color.

SIX: Pour the rest of the dark purple soap into the lighter color purple already in the mold. With a spoon or spatula, swirl the soap around a little bit. Spritz with alcohol to get rid of bubbles.

SEVEN: Let the soap cool and harden until it forms a skin. Then, dust on a fine sprinkling of Fine Silver Rainbow EcoGlitter on top.

EIGHT: Add 18 mL of Amethyst Fragrance Oil to the remaining uncolored soap. Stir until fully incorporated.

TEN: Once the soap is the correct temperature (see note), spritz the purple soap with alcohol. Pour some of the clear soap into the purple soap slowly. Reserve about 8 ounces of clear soap. Spritz with alcohol once more.
NOTE: It’s very important at this point to keep track of temperatures. The idea is to have the clear soap warm enough to penetrate the purple soap that is already in the mold. The ideal temperature for the purple soap in the mold is around 120° F, and the ideal temperature for the clear soap in the bowl that you’re about to pour is around 135°.

ELEVEN: At this point, the remaining soap may have cooled and hardened. If so, heat up the soap in the microwave again for 20-30 seconds to make it fluid. When it’s liquid again, add two .15 CC Mini Scoops of Super Pearly White Mica to the reserved clear melt and pour.

TWELVE: Spritz the soap in the mold with alcohol again and carefully pour the white soap onto the clear soap in the mold. It will penetrate into the clear soap, so be mindful not to pour too high or too fast. Spritz with alcohol to eliminate bubbles, and let completely dry and harden for several hours up to overnight.

Cut the Crystals

ONE: After the soap has completely hardened, it’s time to cut. Remove the soap from the mold. Carefully cut the loaf into bars the width you’d like to cut your crystal point. Vary the widths anywhere between .5″ and even up to 2″ (for large crystal points). Just give yourself variation for whatever size you decide. If you prefer large points, 1.5″ to 2″ slices work best. For the smaller points, create 0.5″ to 1″ slices. Sometimes I’ll even go as far as to slice a 0.5″ bar into a 0.25″ bar for teeny tiny crystal points.

TIP: Please refer to the attached Amethyst Point cutting video to see the technique for cutting the points, I’ll try my best to explain in words, but it’s really a whole lot easier to understand when you see it!

TWO: With the purple side up, slice the bar into even sections where the top edges look like a square.

THREE: Very carefully, cut all four corners off of the section.

FOUR: On the corners you cut off, place the knife upward and diagonal, about 2/3 of the way up the section of soap, and very carefully cut the soap into a crystal shape on all four top corners.

FIVE: The soap should now look like like an amethyst crystal point. Do this repeatedly until all the bars are cut into into crystal point shapes!
TIP: Keep the scraps and extra cuttings to use in later projects. They look like little amethyst chips, so hold onto them!

That’s it! I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and are inspired. I would love to see what you all create! Below is a video to show you how you can use these soap crystal points as embeds in another project.

In the video below, you can see on how to embed the crystal points into the 10″ Silicone Loaf Mold to create Amethyst Geode Slice Soaps. I used Pewter Silver Mica and a Black Oxide Color Block to create the shades in the base. For another idea, check out the video for Amethyst Cluster Pool Soaps on my YouTube Channel. ????????

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Amethyst Crystal Soap Tutorial

Lane with Mama Bass Handmade Soap shows you how to make Amethyst Crystal Soap Points.

Course Melt and Pour Soap

Author Mama Bass

Ingredients

• 10 ″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• 50 oz. Stephenson Ultra Clear Soap Base
• 30 mL Amethyst Fragrance Oil
• Tropical Purple Low pH LabColor
• Super Pearly White Mica
• Fine Silver Rainbow EcoGlitter
• Droppers
• 99 % Isopropyl Alcohol in a Spray Bottle
• Bramble Berry’s Perfect Scale
• Infrared Thermometer
• Spatula
• .15 CC Scoop
• 5 Quart Glass Mixing Bowl with Lid
• Small Microwave-Safe Measuring Cup
• Gloves to avoid fingerprints

Instructions

Make the Crystals

• Cut up 50 ounces of Ultra Clear Soap Base and add it to the 5 Quart Mixing Bowl. Melt in the microwave using 30 second to 1 minute bursts as many times as needed until completely melted.
• Once the soap is completely melted, pour 16 ounces of the melted soap into a smaller measuring cup and set the rest of the soap aside. TIP: Pre-warm the measuring cup in the microwave for about 30 seconds so the soap doesn’t cool drastically when transferred.
• Using a dropper, add 3 drops of Tropical Purple LabColor to the 16 ounces of soap and stir until completely combined. NOTE: This is undiluted LabColor. We normally recommend diluting it, but Lane tested this recipe and found undiluted LabColors work best. If yours are diluted, you will need to add more to get the same color.
• Add 12 mL of the Amethyst Fragrance Oil to the purple soap and stir until completely blended.
• Pour most of the melted purple soap to the mold. Reserve about 4-6 ounces in the container, and add 3 more drops of the Tropical Purple LabColor to the rest of the melted soap for a more vibrant purple color.
• Pour the rest of the dark purple soap into the lighter color purple already in the mold. With a spoon or spatula, swirl the soap around a little bit. Spritz with alcohol to get rid of bubbles.
• Let the soap cool and harden until it forms a skin. Then, dust on a fine sprinkling of Fine Silver Rainbow EcoGlitter on top.
• Add 18 mL of Amethyst Fragrance Oil to the remaining uncolored soap. Stir until fully incorporated.
• Once the soap is the correct temperature (see note), spritz the purple soap with alcohol. Pour some of the clear soap into the purple soap slowly. Reserve about 8 ounces of clear soap. Spritz with alcohol once more. NOTE: It’s very important at this point to keep track of temperatures. The idea is to have the clear soap warm enough to penetrate the purple soap that is already in the mold. The ideal temperature for the purple soap in the mold is around 120° F, and the ideal temperature for the clear soap in the bowl that you’re about to pour is around 135°.
• At this point, the remaining soap may have cooled and hardened. If so, heat up the soap in the microwave again for 20-30 seconds to make it fluid. When it’s liquid again, add two .15 CC Mini Scoops of Super Pearly White Mica to the reserved clear melt and pour.
• Spritz the soap in the mold with alcohol again and carefully pour the white soap onto the clear soap in the mold. It will penetrate into the clear soap, so be mindful not to pour too high or too fast. Spritz with alcohol to eliminate bubbles, and let completely dry and harden for several hours up to overnight.

Cut the Crystals

• After the soap has completely hardened, it’s time to cut. Remove the soap from the mold. Carefully cut the loaf into bars the width you’d like to cut your crystal point. Vary the widths anywhere between .5″ and even up to 2″ (for large crystal points). Just give yourself variation for whatever size you decide. If you prefer large points, 1.5″ to 2″ slices work best. For the smaller points, create 0.5″ to 1″ slices. Sometimes I’ll even go as far as to slice a 0.5″ bar into a 0.25″ bar for teeny tiny crystal points.
• With the purple side up, slice the bar into even sections where the top edges look like a square.
• Very carefully, cut all four corners off of the section.
• On the corners you cut off, place the knife upward and diagonal, about 2/3 of the way up the section of soap, and very carefully cut the soap into a crystal shape on all four top corners.
• The soap should now look like like an amethyst crystal point. Do this repeatedly until all the bars are cut into into crystal point shapes! TIP: Keep the scraps and extra cuttings to use in later projects. They look like little amethyst chips, so hold onto them!

The post Amethyst Crystal Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

This Spin Swirl Soap is inspired by the beautiful layers and textures of agate stones. The design is created with a technique known as the “Spin Swirl.” It’s an advanced technique that involves layering colors of soap in the mold. Once the mold is full, it’s spun on a Lazy Susan or directly on the counter. The spinning motion causes the soap to swirl together. See the spin swirl in action here.

Once the soap is swirled, pieces of LCP Melt and Pour Soap Base are sprinkled into the corner of each bar. LCP soap base has less glycerin than regular melt and pour soap, which helps prevent sweating. But, because cold process soap needs to cure unwrapped, you may still experience some glycerin dew. Our bars got a little bit, but the glycerin dew actually added some extra “sparkle” to the embeds!

The key to the spin swirl is formulating a recipe that gives you plenty of time to pour all the layers. Once the layers are poured, the soap needs to be liquid enough to move during the spinning process. This recipe contains plenty of slow-moving oils like olive and apricot kernel. It also features the new Amethyst Fragrance Oil, which doesn’t accelerate in cold process soap.

If the soap needs to be fluid for a long period of time, you may be wondering why there is a water discount. The first time we made this soap, we experienced heavy soda ash on the bars. Soda ash is more likely to occur if the soap is poured thin and temperatures are kept cool, like this batch. A water discount is the best way to prevent soda ash. Luckily, even with the water discount, we were still able to create a spin swirl. Just remember to use your stick blender sparingly and work quickly.

What You’ll Need:
Embeds:
 10 oz. LCP Clear Melt and Pour Soap
Lavender Mica
Snowflake Sparkle Mica

Base
18 Bar Birchwood Mold
Silicone Liner for 18 Bar Mold
8.1 oz. Apricot Kernel Oil (15%)
13.5 oz. Coconut Oil (25%)
21.6 oz. Olive Oil (40%)
10.8 oz. Palm Oil (20%)
7.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
15.1 oz. Distilled Water (15% water discount)
3.5 oz. Amethyst Fragrance Oil
Titanium Dioxide
Black Oxide
Queen’s Purple Mica
Lavender Mica
Radiant Plum Colorant

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

Make the Embeds

ONE: Chop and melt 10 ounces of LCP Clear Soap Base in the microwave using 10 second bursts. Once melted, add 1/4 tsp. of Lavender Mica. Stir to thoroughly mix in the colorant. Pour the soap into a mold. The exact shape doesn’t matter because the soap will be cut into pieces. We poured the soap into the 12 Cavity Rectangle Silicone Mold. Spritz with 99% isopropyl alcohol to get rid of bubbles and allow to fully cool and harden.

TWO: Once the soap is completely cool and firm, remove from the mold and cut into small pieces. Don’t worry about making them perfect. In fact, they look better when they are random shapes and sizes. Dust the embeds with Lavender Mica and Snowflake Sparkle Mica. Mix to completely cover the embeds. Set aside.

Make the Base

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also check out the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Disperse 1 teaspoon of the colorant into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil).

Then in separate containers, disperse 1 teaspoon of the Lavender Mica, Queen’s Purple Mica, and Radiant Plum Colorant into 1 tablespoon of lightweight liquid oil. Finally, disperse 1/2 teaspoon of Black Oxide into 1/2 tablespoon oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 3.5 ounces of Amethyst Fragrance Oil into a small glass container and set aside.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 3.5 teaspoons sodium lactate.

TWO: Melt and combine the coconut oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, and palm oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until a very thin trace.

THREE: Be careful to not over emulsify the batter. The soap batter should be very thin. You can always stick blend more later. Split the batch into five containers. Three of the containers should contain 400 mL, one should contain 600 mL, and the last should contain 300 mL.

FOUR: Add the dispersed colorants to the five containers in the following amounts. To work as quickly as possible, we added the colorants directly into the containers first. Use a whisk to fully mix in the colorants.

• Container A (400 mL): All dispersed Radiant Plum Colorant
• Container B (400 mL): 2 tsp. dispersed Lavender Mica
• Container C (400 mL): 2 1/2 tsp. dispersed Queen’s Purple Mica
• Container D (600 mL): 2 tsp. dispersed titanium dioxide + 1/2 tsp. dispersed Lavender Mica
• Container E (300 mL): 1 tsp. dispersed Queen’s Purple Mica + 1/8 tsp. dispersed Black Oxide

FIVE: Add the fragrance oil blend proportionally between the containers (it’s okay to eyeball it). Use a whisk to thoroughly mix in the fragrance oil. The batter should still be very thin.

SIX: Now it’s time to pour. We like to place the mold on a Lazy Susan to help spin the soap. The order in which you pour the colors into the mold is up to you. For this soap, we did not stick to the same color order throughout. We just poured the colors into the mold depending on what looked good. With each pour, keep in mind there is less dark purple soap and more white than the other colors. Pouring the white more frequently between the purple shades gives nice contrast.

Pour a shade of purple soap into one corner of the mold. Count to three during the pour to help pour an even amount. Pour a different color in the opposite corner of the mold, counting to three to help pour evenly. Start pouring various colors into both corners of the mold. As you layer the colors, the soap is pushed toward the center of the mold. Work as quickly as possible during this process, as the soap will continue to thicken up with time. Every now and then, give the colors a whisk to help keep them fluid.

SEVEN: Once the colors meet in the center, begin pouring soap into the empty corners of the mold. Every now and then, give the mold a little shake to disperse the soap. Working quickly, continue to pour the soap in the mold until it’s gone.

EIGHT: Give the mold a few firm taps on the counter to help eliminate air bubbles and to help the layers of soap settle. Begin to spin the Lazy Susan, stopping it quickly to help give the soap movement. You want the centrifugal force created by the spin and stop movement to move the soap in various directions within the mold. Be careful not to spin too hard, or the soap may spill out of the mold.

NINE: Continue swirling until you’re happy with the pattern. Be careful to not over-swirl the soap, or the colors will muddle together.

TEN: Once you’re happy with the swirl, place the divider set into the mold until it reaches the bottom. Begin placing the melt and pour pieces into the corner of each bar. Use your fingers to gently press the embeds into the soap to help them stick.

TWELVE: Continue adding the melt and pour pieces to each cavity. Once you’re done, spray the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. The melt and pour embeds can melt if they become too hot, so store this soap in a cool place. Allow them to sit in the dividers for at least 3 days. Because this is a soft recipe and the soap was poured at a thin trace, it may take a little longer to unmold. But, the water discount helps speed up the process.

After 3 days, check to see if the silicone mold pulls away easily from the soap. If it does, remove the soap from the silicone mold. If it doesn’t, give the soap another day or two to harden. Gently remove the soap from the dividers. To prevent tearing, do not pull the dividers. Push the soap down, or slide the dividers up or down to remove the soap without tearing. Allow the soap to cure for 4-6 weeks, and enjoy!

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Agate Spin Swirl Soap Tutorial

This Spin Swirl Soap is inspired by the colors and textures of agates.

Course Cold process soap

Cook Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 2 hours hours

Servings 6 pounds

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

Embeds:

• 10 oz. LCP Clear Melt and Pour Soap
• Lavender Mica
• Snowflake Sparkle Mica

Base

• 18 Bar Birchwood Mold
• Silicone Liner for 18 Bar Mold
• 8.1 oz. Apricot Kernel Oil 15%
• 13.5 oz. Coconut Oil 25%
• 21.6 oz. Olive Oil 40%
• 10.8 oz. Palm Oil 20%
• 7.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 15.1 oz. Distilled Water 15% water discount
• 3.5 oz. Amethyst Fragrance Oil
• Titanium Dioxide
• Black Oxide
• Queen’s Purple Mica
• Lavender Mica
• Radiant Plum Colorant

Instructions

Make the Embeds

• Chop and melt 10 ounces of LCP Clear Soap Base in the microwave using 10 second bursts. Once melted, add 1/4 tsp. of Lavender Mica. Stir to thoroughly mix in the colorant. Pour the soap into a mold. The exact shape doesn’t matter because the soap will be cut into pieces. We poured the soap into the 12 Cavity Rectangle Silicone Mold. Spritz with 99% isopropyl alcohol to get rid of bubbles and allow to fully cool and harden.
• Once the soap is completely cool and firm, remove from the mold and cut into small pieces. Don’t worry about making them perfect. In fact, they look better when they are random shapes and sizes. Dust the embeds with Lavender Mica and Snowflake Sparkle Mica. Mix to completely cover the embeds. Set aside.

Make the Base

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Disperse 1 teaspoon of the colorant into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Then in separate containers, disperse 1 teaspoon of the Lavender Mica, Queen’s Purple Mica, and Radiant Plum Colorant into 1 tablespoon of lightweight liquid oil. Finally, disperse 1/2 teaspoon of Black Oxide into 1/2 tablespoon oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 3.5 ounces of Amethyst Fragrance Oil into a small glass container and set aside.

• Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 3.5 teaspoons sodium lactate.
• Melt and combine the coconut oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, and palm oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until a very thin trace.
• Be careful to not over emulsify the batter. The soap batter should be very thin. You can always stick blend more later. Split the batch into five containers. Three of the containers should contain 400 mL, one should contain 600 mL, and the last should contain 300 mL.
• Add the dispersed colorants to the five containers in the following amounts. To work as quickly as possible, we added the colorants directly into the containers first. Use a whisk to fully mix in the colorants.

  Container A (400 mL): All dispersed Radiant Plum Colorant

  Container B (400 mL): 2 tsp. dispersed Lavender Mica

  Container C (400 mL): 2 1/2 tsp. dispersed Queen’s Purple Mica

  Container D (600 mL): 2 tsp. dispersed titanium dioxide + 1/2 tsp. dispersed Lavender Mica

  Container E (300 mL): 1 tsp. dispersed Queen’s Purple Mica + 1/8 tsp. dispersed Black Oxide
• Add the fragrance oil blend proportionally between the containers (it’s okay to eyeball it). Use a whisk to thoroughly mix in the fragrance oil. The batter should still be very thin.
• Now it’s time to pour. We like to place the mold on a Lazy Susan to help spin the soap. The order in which you pour the colors into the mold is up to you. For this soap, we did not stick to the same color order throughout. We just poured the colors into the mold depending on what looked good. With each pour, keep in mind there is less dark purple soap and more white than the other colors. Pouring the white more frequently between the purple shades gives nice contrast. Pour a shade of purple soap into one corner of the mold. Count to three during the pour to help pour an even amount. Pour a different color in the opposite corner of the mold, counting to three to help pour evenly. Start pouring various colors into both corners of the mold. As you layer the colors, the soap is pushed toward the center of the mold. Work as quickly as possible during this process, as the soap will continue to thicken up with time. Every now and then, give the colors a whisk to help keep them fluid.
• Once the colors meet in the center, begin pouring soap into the empty corners of the mold. Every now and then, give the mold a little shake to disperse the soap. Working quickly, continue to pour the soap in the mold until it’s gone.
• Give the mold a few firm taps on the counter to help eliminate air bubbles and to help the layers of soap settle. Begin to spin the Lazy Susan, stopping it quickly to help give the soap movement. You want the centrifugal force created by the spin and stop movement to move the soap in various directions within the mold. Be careful not to spin too hard, or the soap may spill out of the mold.
• Continue swirling until you’re happy with the pattern. Be careful to not over-swirl the soap, or the colors will muddle together.
• Once you’re happy with the swirl, place the divider set into the mold until it reaches the bottom. Begin placing the melt and pour pieces into the corner of each bar. Use your fingers to gently press the embeds into the soap to help them stick.
• Continue adding the melt and pour pieces to each cavity. Once you’re done, spray the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. The melt and pour embeds can melt if they become too hot, so store this soap in a cool place. Allow them to sit in the dividers for at least 3 days. Because this is a soft recipe and the soap was poured at a thin trace, it may take a little longer to unmold. But, the water discount helps speed up the process. After 3 days, check to see if the silicone mold pulls away easily from the soap. If it does, remove the soap from the silicone mold. If it doesn’t, give the soap another day or two to harden. Gently remove the soap from the dividers. To prevent tearing, do not pull the dividers. Push the soap down, or slide the dividers up or down to remove the soap without tearing. Allow the soap to cure for 4-6 weeks, and enjoy!

The post Agate Spin Swirl Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

Gemstones are a great source of inspiration for handmade products. We immediately picture vivid colors, complex scents, and plenty of shimmer. That’s where our new collection of gemstone-inspired products comes in. As soon as items like the Powder Sprayer or the Silicone Gemstone Mold are delivered to your door, you’ll want to get started on your next handmade masterpiece.

The new collection includes Turquoise Fragrance Oil, Amethyst Fragrance Oil, Jade Fragrance Oil, Moonstone Fragrance Oil, Fine Silver Rainbow EcoGlitter, Silver Rainbow EcoGlitter, the Powder Sprayer, and the Silicone Gemstone Mold. For a limited time, you can sample all four new fragrances and find your favorite. The Gemstone Fragrance Oil Collection has 2 ounces of each scent for just $16.95, which is $10 off the retail price. Don’t wait, it’s only available until Sunday, Sept. 3rd. Once it’s gone, the fragrance oils will only be available for purchase individually. Find all the new products here.

Bramble Berry CEO and Founder Anne-Marie will be talking about the new products in a Facebook Live video on Tuesday, Aug. 29th at 11 a.m. PST. You won’t want to miss it!

Moonstone Fragrance Oil: This scent is a beautiful combination of soft florals and sweet fruits. It has notes of lavender, bergamot, jasmine, violet, sandalwood, and vanilla. It lightly accelerates in cold process soap and discolors to tan.

Turquoise Fragrance Oil: You’ll love the sophisticated mix of bergamot, lemon, jasmine, rose, patchouli, and amber in this scent. It accelerates in cold process soap and discolors brown.

Amethyst Fragrance Oil: This fresh scent has notes of pear, melon, sparkling lemon, lily, patchouli, and amber. It doesn’t accelerate or discolor in cold process soap.

Jade Fragrance Oil: Fruity and floral are the star of this fresh fragrance. It has notes of grapefruit, English ivy, green apple, neroli, and fern moss. It doesn’t accelerate or discolor in cold process soap.

We’ll share tutorials here that demonstrate all the ways you can get creative with the new products. Which one is inspiring you the most? Let us know using the tag #BrambleOn.

The post Introducing the Gemstone Fragrance Oil Collection appeared first on Soap Queen.